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Change of plan

January 09, 2019

I'm having a post-Christmas crisis. Whatever fitness I built up in the two months before Christmas is now in tatters. I have a layer of seal-blubber on my body and an inherent feeling of laziness, which is either due to lack of exercise, or from getting six vaccinations about a week ago. I don't think I can blame the vaccinations anymore, I need to get back on my bike and under the sky again. There's a new plan: Africa.

My original plan was to go east after reaching Lisbon, across Europe to the middle east. But having spent so much time being cold and wet, the prospect of being warm and dry in Africa is now far more appealing. Africa is also unknown to me (unlike Europe), and inspires shock and horror when mentioned in the same sentence as 'cycling' and 'wild-camping', which only encourages me. So, from Lisbon I will loosely follow the Eurovelo 1 route, down the coast to Sagres, then east and back into Spain, where I'll hug the coast until I can cross (by ferry) to Morroco.

Morocco has no travel warnings, unlike most of the other countries on my route. Crime and terrorism are the main issues, but if I stick to the west coast (all the way to Cape Town), I can avoid most of the unsafe countries, except for Mauritania and Nigeria. These are marked 'level 3' by the US government (4 being the highest), for which the recommendation is to 'reconsider travel'. I did reconsider it, and I think the experience of the trip as a whole outweighs the risks. The warnings mostly relate to cities, and in particular, crowded tourist areas, which I won't be in. In addition, I've read of many cyclists safely covering the same route as me. But I will keep my wits about me!

When the idea of cycling through Africa popped into my head, the first thing I was scared of was being eaten by a lion. Then I found out that hippos kill more people than lions do, so I became scared of that too. I even researched 'how to survive a lion attack'. But now, after realising how unlikely a run-in with a lion or hippo is, I'm more scared of getting malaria, running out of water or getting robbed. Luckily, these things can be avoided with anti-malaria tablets and DEET spray, careful route planning and by not exuding wealth. I'll have to send my gold Rolex home.

I also have a new piece of kit:

A Zoom H4n portable audio recorder in my hand

It's not a Star Trek phaser, it's a stereo field recorder. So when I'm trembling in my tent, listening to hyenas barking in the bush around me, you can listen too! (From the safety of your sofa/bed/bath.) Other new kit includes a water filter/purifier and an emergency sterile kit (various needles and syringes), which hopefully won't be needed.

Wish me luck!

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